Physical Description
A. callidryas are one of the most common treefrogs kept in captivity, perhaps because of their vivid colors and overall beauty. A. callidryas are medium sized treefrogs, with females reaching around 3.5 inches in length, and males around 3 inches. The most notable characteristic is the huge, red eyes that seem to bulge out of the heads of these frogs. The huge, red eyes are used as a defense mechanism. When sleeping, the frog closes a transparent lid over the eyes, and then abruptly opens the huge, red eyes when disturbed. This is called "startle coloration", as the maneuver usually results in startling the intruder, thus giving the frog a brief moment to leap away. The dorsal coloration changes from bright, almost fluorescent green, to darker, forest green during different times of the day, and in response to temperature and mood changes. The sides have stripes of blue and yellowish coloration, thought to be a form of aposematic coloration. When sleeping, the bright colored stripes are covered by the legs, but are abruptly displayed when disturbed. This, along with the startling eyes, is enough to confuse many wild predators, giving the frog a window to leap away. The feet are large, consisting of typical toe pads that aid in attaching to leaves. Juvenile morphs are brownish green, and change to bright green as they mature. 

In the wild, and in captivity, these nocturnal frogs typically spend their days attached to green leaves, sometimes in small groups. They position themselves in such a way so as to disguise every colorful part of their body in an attempt to blend into the leaves. They do this so well, that they are often difficult to find even in a small home enclosure. The photo at right shows an adult in the typical resting position. 

Distribution & Natural Habitat of A. callidryas

Predators & Prey

Red eyed treefrog's are also hunters, consuming large numbers of insects in the wild. In captivity, adults can subsist on a diet of bite-sized invertebrates, including crickets, moths, flies, beetles, etc. Most individuals are strictly nocturnal, and will only feed at night. Juveniles can be fed smaller invertebrates, such as pinhead crickets, fruit flies, flout beetles, etc. The following table lists some store-bought foods that are commonly available at many pet stores.

Breeding Behavior

In addition to croaking, males are known to "quiver" during the breeding season. This occurs at the peak of a croak, while facing another male. During this staring contest, any sign of movement from one frog prompts a wrestling match between the males. 

A. callidryas in Captivity

The substrate should be a nutrient-rich mixture, with a healthy colony of beneficial bacteria (see article 0021 - Substrates for the Vivarium for more information on substrate mixtures). Dried and/or color-died mosses should not be used as substrate because they rot easily, and create and ideal environment for bacterial colonies. Live sheet mosses or pillow mosses make excellent and natural additions to the ground floor. Large pieces of moisture-tolerant wood, such as ghost wood or cypress, can be added to the ground floor, as well. Small ground plants, including tropical ferns and peperomias, also add an aesthetically pleasing, natural touch.

Red eyed treefrogs enjoy soaking their bodies, or sometimes just their posterior ends, in shallow water at night. Most reptile/pet stores carry bowls specifically for soaking purposes, that are only an inch or so deep, allowing the frogs to hold their heads above the water. These types of bowls are excellent for soaking purposes, and should be refreshed daily with de-chlorinated water to ensure a fresh supply of clean water every night. For breeding purposes, a larger water area of at least a few inches depth may be necessary. Breeding pools can consist of large bowls of a few inches depth, or a corner of the tank sectioned off with Plexiglas. Mating takes place in the trees, and eggs are deposited on leaves directly above the water source, where they will develop into tadpoles. Upon hatching, the tadpoles fall into the water source and continue development. In captivity, breeding pools should have many large leaves overhanging the water area to promote egg deposition. In most cases, the eggs should be removed before hatching, and raised separately from the adults. However, large tanks can potentially support a breeding cycle, with adults and morphs in the same environment. In some cases, red eyes may also breed in the presence of only a shallow soaking bowl. 

The enclosure must always be kept moist, and humid, but not soggy. The tank should be sprayed with de-chlorinated water once or twice a day, as needed, to ensure proper moisture levels. Some may opt for the convenience of a misting system and timer. These are excellent devices for breeding purposes, as they can be set to simulate seasonal changes by increasing or decreasing the number of sprayings per day. A. callidryas require ample ventilation, so a full or partial screen lid is a requirement with this species. If retaining humidity is an issue, as it is in many dry areas, a 2/3 screen and 1/3 glass lid may be necessary. See article 0020 - Captive Habitats: Ideas, Instructions, and Examples and the Captive & Wild Habitats section of the Photo Gallery. 

During the warmer months, temperatures can range from 75°F - 85°F during the day, dropping as low as 66°F - 70°F at night. In order to stimulate breeding, daylight temperatures can be dropped to around 70°F - 75°F during the winter months, in addition to increased moisture to simulate the rainy season. In general, humidity should be kept around 70%-90%. Some would say this level of humidity is not necessary with this A. callidryas because they would not experience this in their natural habitat, up in the treetops. However, A. callidryas range from lowlands to treetops, depending on the the exact origin, and so are in a varying range of humidity levels. High humidity is not known to have adverse effects on this species, but insufficient humidity could lead to desiccation. Correct temperatures may be achieved with heat lamps and bulbs. If used, these should be positioned several inches above the tank so as not overheat the tank, plants, or fixtures. Ceramic heat lamps are acceptable too, but do not produce light, and so should be used in combination with fluorescent light tubes. Fluorescent bulbs are better for plant growth, and do not pose the risk of burns to the plants or animals.

If kept properly, this species will readily breed in captivity. If eggs are produced, they may need to be relocated into a suitable aquarium with an ample supply of clean, de-chlorinated water to further develop. However, larvae and young can successfully develop naturally in large vivariums. 

As with all amphibians, tap water should be treated with a water conditioner or primer prior to the introduction of inhabitants. Never used plain tap water, de-ionized, distilled, or reverse osmosis water alone with amphibians. See article 0006 - Water Quality and Amphibians for more information about water quality.

Feeding A. callidryas

Duellman, William, and Linda Trueb. Biology of Amphibians. Johns Hopkins University Pr., 1994.

Hofrichter, Robert. Amphibians: The World of Frogs, Toads, Salamanders and Newts. Firefly Books, 2000.

Mattison, Chris. Frogs & Toads of The World. Sterling Publications, 1998.

McDiarmid, Roy W., and Ronald Altig. Tadpoles: The Biology of Anuran Larvae. University of Chicago Press, 2000.

Savage, Jay, Michael Fogden, and Patricia Fogden. The Amphibians and Reptiles of Costa Rica: A Herpetofauna Between Two Continents, Between Two Seas. University of Chicago Press, 2002.

Wright, Kevin M.,  and Brent R. Whitaker. Amphibian Medicine and Captive Husbandry. Malabar: Krieger Publishing, 2001.