Site Search:
 
About    Terms of Use    Works Cited    Contact Us  

 
 
Order: ANURA
Information about frogs & toads.
  Introduction
  Species Database
  Database Entries
  Families in Detail
  Anuran Biology
  Photo Gallery
 
Order: CAUDATA
Information about salamanders.
  Introduction
  Species Database
  Database Entries
  Caudate Biology
  Families in Detail
  Photo Gallery
 
Order: GYMNOPHIONA
Information about caecilians.
  Introduction
  Species Database
  Database Entries
  Caecilian Biology
  Families in Detail
  Photo Gallery
 

Amphibian Biology
Amphibian Articles
Photo Gallery
Member Gallery
Folklore
 

About Us
Contact Us
Terms of Use
 
 
amphibians, frogs, salamanders, caecilians, newts, mudpuppies, waterdogs, axolotls, sirens, amphiuma, biology, physiology, genetics, distribution maps, zoology, conservation, preservation, biodiversity
Article 0002 Amphibian Foods & Feeding Tips

 Introduction


Amphibians are carnivorous animals that feast on an array of small insects, worms, small aquatics, and other invertebrates. Amphibians also capture food using several different methods. Frogs and toads usually lunge at moving prey, and with the exception of a few species, will overlook still, unmoving prey. Many caudate species hunt mainly by eye sight, and are usually adept to a bit of a chase when prey is sighted, while others are more adapt to following scents, and can capture perfectly still prey that a newt who hunts with eye sight alone would have overlooked. Eastern Newts (Nothopthalmus viridescens), for example, have an interesting method of capturing prey on land, involving several steps: 1) They move in closer to the prey upon seeing slight or obvious movements, 2) They will practically pin the prey down with their snouts and take a few seconds to smell what they are about to ingest, 3) The tongue is extended to trap the prey, while the mouth encloses to secure its capture. Some aquatic newts, such as the common Paddle Tail Newt (Pachytriton labiatus), and some Warty Newts of the genus Paramesotriton lunge at and chase almost anything even relatively moving. These newts are adept to chasing down their prey, and are one of the few newts to be somewhat proficient at capturing fast moving fish. Visit UCB's Autodax web site for informative, and visual information about salamander feeding habits.

In captivity, amphibians require a variety of live foods similar to the types of prey they would hunt in the wild. Unfortunately, the pet industry does not provide specifically for amphibians, so one must make due with what is available. Some common types of foods available and acceptable for terrestrial amphibians are: crickets, waxworms, mealworms, earthworms and night crawlers, fruit flies, flour beetle larvae, rice beetle larvae, and springtails (foods are dependent upon size of specimen). Common foods for aquatic and semi-aquatic amphibians are: brine shrimp, blood worms, and tubifex worms, chopped earthworms, and waxworms (foods are dependent upon size, and some require feeding with forceps or tweezers). Aquatic amphibian larvae can be raised on newly hatched brine shrimp, daphnia, paramecium, crushed fish flakes, finely chopped blood worms, finely chopped mussel, finely chopped earthworms and night crawlers, and finely chopped tubifex worms.

Aphids ( order: Homoptera): Aphids, or Plant Lice, are tiny insects that feed on plant life. They are considered parasites by gardeners.

Aphids can be offered to newly morphed, terrestrial amphibians, however, they are not always accepted. Aphids are not recommended as a food source in planted terrariums, as they will become established and possibly destroy healthy plant life. Also, they can easily escape through screen lids and establish themselves on house plants, so caution must be used with this food item in some situations. On the other hand, if these issues are not a factor, and they are accepted by newly morphed amphibians, aphids make a convenient and hassle-free food source. Aphids are often collected from outdoors, but keep in mind that insects collected from the wild may have been exposed to insecticides or other chemicals that may harm amphibians if consumed. It is always safer to purchase cultured foods, or culture them yourself.

For more information on aphids and aphid control, the University of Kentucky Entymology Department has a useful article at: uky.edu/Agriculture/Entomology/entfacts/fldcrops/ef103.htm

Blood Worms (Chironomidae): Blood worms are often confused or mistaken for tubifex worms (see below for tubifex worms), but are actually not a worm at all. Blood Worms are the aquatic larvae of certain insects of the order Diptera, family Chironomidae (Midges). The red coloration is due to the possession of hemoglobin, and gives them the vernacular name Blood Worms. Not all Chironomid larvae possess hemoglobin, and are instead green or whitish in color.

Blood worms measure between 10-30mm towards the last part of the larvae stage, and are a common food source for small aquatic, semi-aquatic, and newly metamorphosed amphibians. Blood worms are high in protein, and provide a good source of iron due to the possession of hemoglobin.

Live blood worms are difficult to find, but are commonly available in the frozen form. Frozen blood worms should be thawed before feeding to amphibians. Keep in mind that not all amphibians will accept frozen foods, either.

Brine Shrimp (Artemia spp.): Small crustaceans of the genus Artemia. Brine Shrimp are a tiny marine shrimp that come from bodies of water with very high salinity levels (sometimes 25%) and considerable aeration, such as the Great Salt Lake in Salt Lake City, Utah (USA), and the San Francisco Bay (USA). Brine Shrimp grow to approximately 10mm as adults, and feed on certain bacteria, yeast, microalgae, detritus, and dissolved organic matter. Brine are easy to raise at home, provided an adequate hatchery setup is constructed.

When purchased from a store, live brine shrimp should be stored in the refrigerator, and will only survive for a few days. Before feeding to aquatic and semi-aquatic amphibians, the shrimp must be rinsed of the salt water (scoop a small amount into a small net and run under water faucet). Newly hatched brine shrimp are commonly fed to larval salamanders and tadpoles. Brine should not be used as a staple diet for amphibians, as they are a marine crustacean that amphibians are not accustomed to consuming, and they possess a very high salt content. Frozen brine shrimp are also available, and are accepted by some aquatic and semi-aquatic species.

*Useless Fact: Brine Shrimp are commonly sold as children's pets in Sea Monkey Kits. The 'eggs' sold in these kits are actually dormant Artemia cysts containing an embryo in a suspended state of metabolism, known as diapause. Artemia cysts can remain in this suspended state for several years, until the cysts are re-hydrated with highly saline water.

Crickets (Acheta spp.): Insects of the family Gryllidae, having long antennae and legs adapted for leaping. Adult males of many species produce a shrill chirping sound by rubbing the front wings together.

Most arthropods fed to captive amphibians, such as crickets, possess an inverse calcium-to-phosphorous ratio, making them a calcium-deficient food source for amphibians. Amphibians that are fed a diet of only crickets, especially juveniles, are at high risk of developing MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease). The calcium-deficiency of crickets can be counteracted by "gut-loading" the crickets approximately 48 hours prior to feeding to amphibians. Gut loading means feeding crickets meals high in lacking nutrients, namely calcium, prior to feeding the crickets to other organisms. When an amphibian eats a cricket it will absorb any nutrients within the cricket, so healthy crickets lead to healthier amphibians, and vice versa. Cricket diets can be purchased at most pet stores that sell crickets, or online from any reptile/amphibian supply company, and should be around 5%-8% calcium to maintain a positive calcium-to-phosphorous balance. A major disadvantage to gut-loading with high calcium foods is that the crickets usually cannot survive more than 48 hours on such a diet. Because of this, it is important to feed gut-loaded crickets to amphibians before they die, but also after a sufficient digestion period has passed. Also, crickets usually will not accept a high calcium diet if other foods are present, so make sure they are only offered the high calcium gut-load. It has been shown that amphibians fed a diet of properly gut-loaded crickets can still develop calcium imbalances, implying that there are other major factors affecting calcium absorption and utilization. Because of this, it is important to feed amphibians a wide variety of foods, and crickets making up a small percentage. For more information on amphibian nutritional disorders, see article 0001 - Common Amphibian Ailments

Another method of increasing the nutritional value of crickets is to dust them with mineral-vitamin powder immediately before offering the insects to amphibians. Dusting is supposed to increase the calcium and D3 levels upon ingestion, but has been proven sufficiently ineffective. The main problem with the dusting method is that the powder comes off easily as the insects move about the amphibians home, which reduces or eliminates its transfer to the amphibian. For more information on amphibian nutritional disorders, see article 0001 - Common Amphibian Ailments

Crickets can also cause digestion problems, such as impaction and gastric overload. These problems occur when amphibians consume too many crickets at once, which may not be digested thoroughly, or may sit in the gut and putrefy. For more information on amphibian nutritional disorders, see article 0001 - Common Amphibian Ailments

The size of the crickets should be chosen according to the size of the amphibians mouth. There is no exact science to the age of the crickets compared to the size of the amphibian, however, it is important to provide crickets that are not too big to be captured and swallowed, and not too small to continually escape. Dead crickets should be removed from amphibian tanks regularly to avoid waste accumulation. Keep in mind that large crickets are carnivorous and opportunistic, and can bite small amphibians, as well. Because of this, and the fact that crickets produce a large amount of waste, any uneaten crickets should be removed from the tank after a sufficient feeding time has passed.

Crickets live for approximately 7 weeks, and will grow very fast in the first few weeks of life. Adult males have large wings, and will incessantly "chirp" at night. Crickets should be stored in plastic containers/tubs with a lid and air holes. Packing Tape can be placed around the inside edge of the container to prevent the crickets from climbing up the sides and escaping. Egg crates, or other objects, should be included in their container so that smaller crickets can avoid being eaten by larger crickets. Crickets prefer warmer temps (75°F-85°F), but are very hardy and can withstand cooler temps if necessary. Raising crickets is relatively easy, if you don't mind the occasional escapee.

Copepods, Freeliving: Copepods are tiny aquatic crustaceans, usually measuring around 1-2 mm in length. Most species are found in marine habitats, however some species have successfully colonized freshwater systems, as well. Copepods of the orders Calanoida, Cyclopoida, and Harpacticoida are a few freshwater types. Calanoid copepods (illustrated to the far left) have been noted to reach speeds up to 90 meters per hour, which is relatively quick for such a tiny organism. Although many species have been described, all copepod species share a common feature: a single, simple eye in the middle of the head.

Because of their tiny size, copepods are typically fed to newly hatched aquatic larvae. Freshwater copepods can be collected from ponds, streams, creeks, and even phytotelmata in some areas. They can also be purchased through most biological supply companies. 

Keep in mind that organisms collected from the wild may have been exposed to harmful chemicals that  can affect amphibians if consumed. It is always safer to purchase cultured foods, or culture them yourself.

Daphnia (Daphnia spp.): Daphnia, also called water fleas, are small crustaceans that live near the surface of freshwater ponds. They have long antennae used for jumping movements, and are capable of thriving in oxygen-poor waters due to their ability to synthesize hemoglobin. Daphnia feed on bacteria, yeast, microalgae, detritus, and dissolved organic matter (daphnia.com).

Daphnia are an ideal food for larval amphibians, and can be purchased from most Biological Supply companies. The most common species are Daphnia magna, and Daphnia pulex. D. magna are 1-3 mm long, and D. pulex are approximately 1/4 this size.

Earthworms & Nightcrawlers (Lumbricus spp.): Terrestrial annelid worms of the class Oligochaeta, especially those of the family Lumbricidae, that burrow into and help aerate and enrich soil.

Earthworms are typically too large for most amphibians to eat whole, and should be chopped into bite-sized pieces with a razor or scissors. Also, if fed whole, earthworms will usually manage to bury themselves in the substrate before they're discovered and eaten (except with larger species). Most species will respond to the smell of earthworms when left in their tank, however, some may be more persuaded to take them if dangled in front of their nose with forceps. Many anurans will not accept earthworms, especially treefrogs or others that depend mainly on eyesight for hunting.  

Most species of earthworm can be fed to terrestrial, aquatic, semi-aquatic, and newly metamorphosed amphibians. However, some earthworms, such as red worms, produce a foul, odorous mucus that is distasteful to amphibians. Such worms are usually rejected by amphibians.

Freeze Dried & Frozen Foods: Most aquatic and semi-aquatic species can become accustomed to consuming non-living foods, however, these should not be fed as a staple diet. Frozen blood worms, tubifex, and mosquito larvae are usually accepted, and can be purchased from most pet stores or online. 

Freeze dried foods are not recommended, as they typically do not provide proper nourishment. However, Rangen, Inc. brand salmon pellets are an excellent food source commonly feed to aquatic and semi-aquatic amphibians. These are "soft-moist" pellets that are easy to digest by amphibians. Rangen, Inc. brand pellets can be purchased through the Indiana University Axolotl Colony. As with all non-living foods, some amphibians will not accept even the Rangen brand salmon pellets.

Fly Larvae/Maggots (Diptera): Fly Larva are approximately 1cm in length, and can be fed to small and medium sized amphibians. Fly larvae are astonishingly resilient and have been known to cause digestive problems in some amphibian species (National Academic Press). If whole, undigested fly larvae are seen excreted, they should not be included in the diet. However, fly larvae are high in protein, and can be used in moderation if abnormal excretions are not observed. 

Fly larvae can be fed to terrestrials, semi-aquatics, and aquatics. One drawback to fly larvae is that they can bury themselves in substrate, even gravel, before they are eaten. When they bury themselves in soil, they will morph into adult flies, and when they bury into aquatic gravel, they will die and potentially create high ammonia levels.

Fly larvae can be purchased online (Grubco.com is a reputable company), and will last for months in the refrigerator.

Fruit Flies (Drosophila spp.): Small flies of the family Drosophilidae, having larvae that feed on ripening or fermenting fruits and vegetables, especially the common species Drosophila melanogaster, often used in genetic research.

Fruit Flies are very small, and can escape through screen lids. They are best fed to newly metamorphosed and small amphibians. Although the flightless variety are usually sold, they will immediately begin to climb up the closest thing they can find in the tank, and quickly become inaccessible to the amphibians. It is sometimes necessary to supervise feeding and replace the climbing flies on the ground when needed, otherwise your amphibians might not find them. They can also be placed on the surface of water to feed aquatic species. They will wriggle around and catch the eyes of your small hunters.

The most common species sold are Drosophila melanogaster, and Drosophila hydei. D. melanogaster are slightly smaller than a black ant, and D. hydei are approximately 4-5 times the size of D. melanogaster. Fruit flies can be fed to new morphs, larger morphs, juveniles, smaller adult amphibians, advanced larvae, Dendrobates, and other small species.

Mealworms (Tenebrionidae) : Mealworms, the larvae of the Darkling Beetle, are worm-like in appearance and somewhat hardened for burrowing, with a life cycle is 3-5 months. In the larval stage, they may molt 9-20 times (Darkling Beetle/Mealworms). Mealworms are typically fed to larger amphibians (tigers, mandarins, dicamptodons, giant waxies, white's tree frogs etc.).

Mealworms are capable of chewing their way through the stomach of the animal that has consumed them if their mandibles are still in tact when swallowed. If mealworms are included in your amphibians diet, it is a good idea to crush the mandibles prior to feeding.

Mosquito Larvae & Eggs: Like fruit flies, mosquitoes belong to the order Diptera. Many species deposit egg "rafts" on the surface of water (lower left illustration). The eggs hatch into mosquito larvae (upper left illustration), followed by development into pupa, and finally adult mosquito.

Mosquito egg rafts and larvae are typically fed to small aquatic amphibian larvae. The rafts can be laid on the surface of the water, where they would be deposited in the wild. Most small amphibians will consume the eggs, as well as the hatching mosquito larvae. Some amphibians will also consume the pupa if allowed to develop further. 

Mosquito eggs usually hatch within 48 hours of deposition. The larvae live in the water, but breathe air. They will spend their time hanging from the waters surface, making them easy targets for larval amphibians.

Paramecium (Paramecium spp.): Belonging to the kingdom Protista, Paramecium are small unicellular organisms found in abundance in freshwater ponds. Under suitable conditions Paramecium may reproduce by dividing two or three times a day and so large numbers can accumulate in the proper environment (Micscape: Article on Paramecium). Paramecium are typically fed to newly hatched amphibians, and can be collected by skimming the top of a natural pond or lake and collecting the top inch or so of water, or purchased from most Biological Supply companies. Keep in mind that organisms collected from the wild may have been exposed to harmful chemicals that may affect amphibians if consumed. It is always safer to purchase cultured foods, or culture them yourself.

Pill / Sow Bugs, or Roly Polies (order: Isopoda; family: Armadillidiidae): Pill bugs are small isopods, commonly mistaken for insects. Pill bugs have segmented bodies, and seven pairs of legs. If disturbed, pill bugs roll into a tiny, armored ball, hence the name roly poly. 

Pill bugs can be collected from almost any outdoor habitat, and are usually accepted by medium-sized terrestrial amphibians, and some arboreal species. Keep in mind that organisms collected from the wild may have been exposed to harmful chemicals that may affect amphibians if consumed. It is always safer to purchase cultured foods, or culture them yourself. Pill bugs can also be purchased in mass from most biological supply stores, and some bait and tackle stores.

Red Flour Beetles & Confused Flour Beetles (Tribolium castaneum, and Tribolium confusum, respectively): Red and Confused Flour Beetles are commonly found in domestic kitchens, in flour bags, rice bags, cereals, dog food, and other pantry items. They possess very strong mandibles, and can chew into the most secure items. Red flour beetles have surprisingly long lives of 3-5 years, whereas confused flour beetles may only live up to 18 months. The two species can be distinguished as follows: The confused flour beetle's antennae gradually enlarge toward the tip, ending in a four segmented club, whereas the red flour beetle's antennae become club-like very quickly, and the club has only three segments. Also, the sides of the confused flour beetle's pronotum are noticeably straight, whereas the pronotum of the red flour beetle is curved.

Flour Beetles are approximately 3 mm long, are are typically fed to newly morphed amphibians, or smaller species, such as Dendrobates and Mantella. The larvae will reach approximately 1/8 - 1/4 inch long, and can also be fed to new morphs. They are easily cultured using flour or oatmeal as a substrate. Females may lay up to 500 eggs over a lifetime. Larvae will mature into adulthood after 2-4 months, so a flourishing culture may take a while to establish. 

Scuds (Gammerid): Scuds are a type of freshwater shrimp of the amphipod group. Scuds can range in size from a few millimeters up to a 1/4 inch. 

Like copepods and Daphnia, scuds are typically fed to larval amphibians, and can also be collected by skimming the surface of a clean pond, stream, or creek, or purchased from most biological supply companies. Keep in mind that organisms collected from the wild may have been exposed to harmful chemicals that may affect amphibians if consumed. It is always safer to purchase cultured foods, or culture them yourself.

Slugs: Slugs are a common meal for wild amphibians, especially those in the temperate zones. Slugs can be collected and fed to larger amphibians, especially those terrestrials that require slower moving prey. Keep in mind that insects collected from the wild may have been exposed to insecticides or other chemicals that may harm amphibians if consumed. It is always safer to purchase cultured foods, or culture them yourself.

Springtails: coming soon....

    

Tubifex Worms (Tubificidae):  Like their relatives the earthworms, Tubifex worms are of the class Oligochaeta, and feed on decaying organic matter within their substrate. Tubifex differ from earthworms in that they reside in the muddy substrate of freshwater ponds and lakes. Tubifex dig holes, or tubes, in the mud head first, and leave their tails sticking out of the substrate. The part of the tail that is not buried is waved back and forth to create water circulation, which increases the flow of oxygen. In highly oxygenated water, the worms will bury themselves farther into the mud and leave only a tiny bit of the tail out, and in oxygen-poor waters, they will expose more of the tail to allow for more oxygen collection. When tubifex occur in large numbers, the circulation created from their 'tail wagging' creates a significant amount of oxygen, and helps to distribute other chemicals evenly. Tubifex are similar to bloodworms (Chironomid larvae) in that they possess hemoglobin, which allows them to reside in waters with very little oxygen. 

Tubifex worms are one of the most common food items fed to aquatic and semi-aquatic newts and salamanders, as they are readily available and accepted. They can be collected in the wild by sifting the mud in shallow ponds or lakes, or purchased from most any fish or pet store. There are a few things to watch out for when feeding live worms, however. Uneaten live worms will live in the tank, under the gravel where amphibians can't reach them. They will live, die, and multiply under the substrate, which will create a spike in ammonia and nitrite levels that is fairly difficult to correct. One way to prevent this is to place the worms in a small container and sink the container in the water. Amphibians will be able to go in and out to eat, but the worms will remain in the container, in theory. In reality, there are always a few escapees, so frequent water chemistry tests are advisable if worms are included in an amphibians diet. Micro fish bowls made for betas work well for food containers because they are clear, which allows the amphibians to see the worms' movement, and they sink. Also, tubifex have been known to create gas in the stomach of some amphibians, especially new morphs. For this reason, they should not be fed as a staple food.

Tubifex worms should be stored in the refrigerator in a small container with a lid and air holes, and covered approximately 3/4 of the way in water. The water will need to be refreshed daily to preserve the lives of the worms.

Waxworms (Pyralidae): Waxworms are the larvae of the moth Galleria mellonella, belonging to the subfamily Galleriinae of the family Pyralidae, in which the females characteristically lay their eggs in beehives (Bartleby.com). 

Waxworms range in size from 1 cm to 1.5 in in length, and provide a nutritious and fattening treat for many amphibians. They are slow moving, and may be overlooked by amphibians who hunt by eye sight alone, so feeding with forceps may be necessary with some species. Waxworms will develop into small moths if left long enough, so a container with a lid and air holes is necessary.

Waxworms can be fed to aquatic, semi-aquatic, and terrestrials simply by dropping the worms in the water (they will float), on the substrate in front to the amphibian, or by using forceps to place the worm directly in front of the amphibians snout. For terrestrials, the forceps method usually is more effective, as wax worms can burrow into the substrate fairly quickly.

Waxworms should be stored between 50°F-60°F degrees to decrease mortality. Waxworms should not be used as a staple diet for amphibians, as they are very high in fat.

THIS ARTICLE IS A WORK IN PROGRESS; ADDITIONAL INFORMATION IS ADDED WHEN AVAILABLE ...


References:

Quarles, Jim E. Blood Worms: To be or not to be a worm. http://www.dph.nl/sub-article/cat-01/bloodworms.shtml (Accessed: 2002).

Bee Moth. (2003). Columbia Encyclopedia reference, Bartleby.com. http://www.bartleby.com/65/be/beemoth.html (Accessed: 2001).

Darkling Beetle/Mealworm Information. Center for Insect Science Education Outreach (University of Arizona). http://insected.arizona.edu/mealinfo.htm (Accessed: 2001).

Samworth, Mike, and Mike Morgan. (1999). Micscape Article: Paramecium. Microscopy-UK: home of enthusiast microscopy. http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/indexmag.html?http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/articles/param1.html (Accessed: 2001).

Tubifex Worms. (2002). Waters Edge Nursery. http://www.watersedgenursery.com/worms.html. (Accessed: 2002).

 

Copyright © Jessica J. Miller & livingunderworld.org, except where stated otherwise. Contact Us.