Article 0002 Amphibian Foods & Feeding Tips
Introduction
Amphibians are carnivorous animals that feast on an array of small insects, worms, small aquatics, and
other invertebrates. Amphibians
also capture food using several different methods. Frogs and toads
usually lunge at moving prey, and with the exception of a few species, will overlook still, unmoving
prey. Many caudate species hunt
mainly by eye sight, and are usually adept to a bit of a chase when prey is
sighted, while others are more adapt to following scents, and can capture
perfectly still prey that a newt who hunts with eye sight alone would have
overlooked. Eastern Newts (Nothopthalmus viridescens), for example,
have an interesting method of capturing prey on land, involving several
steps: 1) They move in closer to the prey upon seeing slight or obvious
movements, 2) They will practically pin the prey down with their snouts and
take a few seconds to smell what they are about to ingest, 3) The tongue is
extended to trap the prey, while the mouth encloses to secure its capture.
Some aquatic newts, such as the common Paddle Tail Newt (Pachytriton
labiatus), and some Warty Newts of the genus Paramesotriton lunge at and chase almost anything even relatively moving.
These newts are adept to chasing down their prey, and are one of the few newts to be somewhat proficient at capturing fast moving fish.
Visit
UCB's Autodax web site
for informative, and visual information about salamander feeding habits.
In captivity, amphibians require a variety of live foods similar
to the types of prey they would hunt in the wild. Unfortunately, the pet
industry does not provide specifically for amphibians, so one
must make due with what is available. Some common types of foods available and acceptable for terrestrial amphibians are:
crickets, waxworms, mealworms, earthworms and night crawlers, fruit flies,
flour beetle larvae, rice beetle larvae, and springtails (foods are
dependent upon size of specimen). Common
foods for aquatic and semi-aquatic amphibians are: brine shrimp, blood
worms, and tubifex worms, chopped earthworms, and waxworms (foods are
dependent upon size, and some require feeding with forceps or tweezers). Aquatic
amphibian larvae can be raised on newly hatched brine shrimp, daphnia,
paramecium, crushed fish flakes, finely chopped blood worms, finely chopped
mussel, finely chopped earthworms and night crawlers, and finely chopped
tubifex worms.
Aphids ( order: Homoptera): Aphids, or Plant Lice, are tiny insects that
feed on plant life. They are considered parasites by gardeners.
Aphids can be offered to newly morphed, terrestrial
amphibians, however, they are not always accepted. Aphids are
not recommended as a food source in planted terrariums, as they
will become established and possibly destroy healthy plant life.
Also, they can easily escape through screen lids and establish
themselves on house plants, so caution must be used with this
food item in some situations. On the other hand, if these issues
are not a factor, and they are accepted by newly morphed
amphibians, aphids make a convenient and hassle-free food
source. Aphids are often collected from outdoors, but keep in
mind that insects collected from the wild may have been exposed
to insecticides or other chemicals that may harm amphibians if
consumed. It is always safer to purchase cultured foods, or
culture them yourself.
For more information on aphids and aphid control, the
University of Kentucky Entymology Department has a useful
article at:
uky.edu/Agriculture/Entomology/entfacts/fldcrops/ef103.htm
Blood Worms (Chironomidae): Blood worms are often confused or
mistaken for tubifex worms (see below for tubifex worms), but
are actually not a worm at all. Blood Worms are the aquatic
larvae of certain insects of the order Diptera, family
Chironomidae (Midges). The red coloration is due to the
possession of hemoglobin, and gives them the vernacular name
Blood Worms. Not all Chironomid larvae possess hemoglobin, and
are instead green or whitish in color.
Blood worms measure between 10-30mm towards the last part of the larvae
stage, and are a common food source for small aquatic, semi-aquatic, and
newly metamorphosed amphibians. Blood worms are high in protein,
and provide
a good source of iron due to the possession of hemoglobin.
Live blood worms are difficult to find, but are commonly
available in the frozen form. Frozen blood worms should be
thawed before feeding to amphibians. Keep in mind that not all amphibians
will accept frozen foods, either.
Brine Shrimp (Artemia spp.): Small crustaceans of the genus Artemia.
Brine Shrimp are a tiny marine shrimp that come from bodies of water with
very high salinity levels (sometimes 25%) and considerable aeration, such as
the Great Salt Lake in Salt Lake City, Utah (USA), and the San Francisco
Bay (USA). Brine Shrimp grow to approximately 10mm as adults, and feed
on certain bacteria, yeast, microalgae, detritus, and dissolved organic
matter.
Brine are easy
to raise at home, provided an adequate hatchery setup is constructed.
When purchased from a store, live brine shrimp should be stored in the refrigerator, and will only survive for a few
days. Before feeding to aquatic and semi-aquatic
amphibians, the
shrimp must be rinsed of the salt water (scoop a small amount into a small net and run under water faucet). Newly hatched brine shrimp are commonly fed to
larval salamanders and tadpoles. Brine should not be used as a staple diet for amphibians, as they are a marine
crustacean that amphibians are not accustomed to consuming, and they possess
a very high salt content. Frozen brine shrimp are also available, and are
accepted by some aquatic and semi-aquatic species.
*Useless Fact: Brine Shrimp are commonly sold as children's pets in Sea
Monkey Kits. The 'eggs' sold in these kits are actually dormant
Artemia cysts containing an embryo in a suspended state of metabolism,
known as diapause. Artemia cysts can remain in this suspended state
for several years, until the cysts are re-hydrated with highly
saline water.
Crickets (Acheta spp.): Insects of the family Gryllidae,
having long antennae and legs adapted for leaping. Adult males of
many species produce a shrill chirping sound by rubbing the front
wings together.
Most arthropods fed to
captive amphibians, such as crickets, possess an inverse
calcium-to-phosphorous ratio, making them a calcium-deficient food
source for amphibians. Amphibians that are fed a diet of only crickets,
especially juveniles, are at
high risk of developing MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease). The calcium-deficiency of crickets can be
counteracted by "gut-loading" the crickets approximately 48 hours prior to
feeding to amphibians. Gut loading means feeding crickets meals high in
lacking nutrients, namely calcium, prior to feeding the crickets to other
organisms. When an amphibian eats a cricket it will absorb any nutrients
within the cricket, so healthy crickets lead to healthier amphibians,
and vice versa. Cricket diets can be purchased at most pet stores that
sell crickets, or online from any reptile/amphibian supply company, and
should be around 5%-8% calcium to maintain a positive
calcium-to-phosphorous balance. A major disadvantage to gut-loading
with high calcium foods is that the crickets usually cannot survive more
than 48 hours on such a diet. Because of this, it is important to feed
gut-loaded crickets to amphibians before they die, but also after a
sufficient digestion period has passed. Also, crickets usually will not accept a
high calcium diet if other foods are present, so make sure they are only
offered the high calcium gut-load. It has
been shown that amphibians fed a diet of properly gut-loaded crickets
can still develop calcium imbalances, implying that there are other major
factors affecting calcium absorption and utilization. Because of this,
it is important to feed amphibians a wide variety of foods, and crickets
making up a small percentage. For more
information on amphibian nutritional disorders, see
article
0001 - Common Amphibian Ailments.
Another method of increasing the nutritional value of crickets is to
dust them with mineral-vitamin powder immediately before offering the
insects to amphibians. Dusting is supposed to increase the calcium
and D3 levels upon ingestion, but has been proven sufficiently
ineffective. The main problem with the dusting method is that the powder
comes off easily as the insects move about the amphibians home, which
reduces or eliminates its transfer to the amphibian. For more
information on amphibian nutritional disorders, see
article
0001 - Common Amphibian Ailments.
Crickets can also cause digestion problems, such as impaction and gastric
overload. These problems occur when amphibians consume too many crickets at
once, which may not be digested thoroughly, or may sit in the gut and putrefy.
For more
information on amphibian nutritional disorders, see
article
0001 - Common Amphibian Ailments.
The size of the crickets should be chosen according to the size of the
amphibians mouth. There is no exact science to the age of the crickets compared
to the size of the amphibian, however, it is important to provide crickets
that are not too big to be captured and swallowed, and not too small to
continually escape. Dead crickets should be removed from amphibian tanks regularly to avoid waste accumulation. Keep in mind that large crickets are carnivorous
and opportunistic, and can bite small amphibians, as well. Because of this,
and the fact that crickets produce a large amount of waste, any uneaten
crickets should be removed from the tank after a sufficient feeding time has
passed.
Crickets live for approximately 7 weeks, and will grow very fast in the
first few weeks of life. Adult males have large wings, and will incessantly
"chirp" at night. Crickets should be stored in plastic containers/tubs with a
lid and air holes. Packing Tape can be placed around the inside edge of the
container to prevent the crickets from climbing up the sides and escaping. Egg crates,
or other objects, should
be included in their container so that smaller crickets can avoid being
eaten by larger crickets. Crickets prefer warmer temps (75°F-85°F), but are
very hardy and can withstand cooler temps if necessary. Raising
crickets is relatively easy, if you don't mind the occasional escapee.
Copepods,
Freeliving: Copepods are tiny aquatic crustaceans,
usually measuring around 1-2 mm in length. Most species are
found in marine habitats, however some species have successfully
colonized freshwater systems, as well. Copepods of the orders Calanoida,
Cyclopoida, and Harpacticoida are a few freshwater
types. Calanoid copepods (illustrated to the far left) have been
noted to reach speeds up to 90 meters per hour, which is
relatively quick for such a tiny organism. Although many species
have been described, all copepod species share a common feature:
a single, simple eye in the middle of the head.
Because of their tiny size, copepods are typically fed to
newly hatched aquatic larvae. Freshwater copepods can be
collected from ponds, streams, creeks, and even phytotelmata in
some areas. They can also be purchased through most biological
supply companies.
Keep in mind that organisms collected
from the wild may have been exposed to harmful chemicals that
can affect amphibians if consumed. It is always safer to
purchase cultured foods, or culture them yourself.
Daphnia (Daphnia
spp.): Daphnia,
also called water fleas, are small crustaceans that live near the surface of freshwater ponds. They have long antennae used for
jumping movements, and are capable of thriving in oxygen-poor waters due to
their ability to synthesize hemoglobin. Daphnia feed on bacteria, yeast,
microalgae,
detritus, and dissolved organic matter (daphnia.com).
Daphnia are an ideal food for larval amphibians, and can be purchased from most Biological Supply
companies.
The most common species are Daphnia magna, and Daphnia
pulex. D. magna are 1-3 mm long, and D. pulex
are approximately 1/4 this size.
Earthworms & Nightcrawlers
(Lumbricus spp.):
Terrestrial annelid worms of the class Oligochaeta, especially those of the
family Lumbricidae, that burrow into and help aerate and enrich soil.
Earthworms are typically too large for most amphibians to eat whole, and should be chopped into bite-sized pieces
with a razor or scissors. Also, if fed whole, earthworms will usually manage to bury
themselves in the substrate before they're discovered and eaten
(except with larger species).
Most species will respond to the smell of earthworms when left
in their tank, however, some may be more persuaded to take them
if dangled in front of their nose with forceps. Many anurans
will not accept earthworms, especially treefrogs or others that
depend mainly on eyesight for hunting.
Most species of earthworm can be fed to terrestrial, aquatic, semi-aquatic, and newly metamorphosed amphibians.
However, some earthworms, such as red worms, produce a foul, odorous
mucus that is distasteful to amphibians. Such worms are
usually rejected by amphibians.
Freeze Dried
& Frozen Foods:
Most aquatic and semi-aquatic
species can become accustomed to consuming non-living foods,
however, these should not be fed as a staple diet. Frozen blood
worms, tubifex, and mosquito larvae are usually accepted, and
can be purchased from most pet stores or online.
Freeze dried foods are not
recommended, as they typically do not provide proper nourishment.
However, Rangen, Inc. brand salmon pellets are an excellent food
source commonly feed to aquatic and semi-aquatic amphibians.
These are "soft-moist" pellets that are easy to digest
by amphibians. Rangen, Inc. brand pellets can be purchased
through the
Indiana University Axolotl Colony. As with all non-living
foods, some amphibians will not accept even the Rangen brand
salmon pellets.
Fly Larvae/Maggots
(Diptera):
Fly Larva are approximately 1cm in
length, and can be fed to small and medium sized amphibians. Fly larvae are astonishingly resilient and have been
known to cause digestive problems in some amphibian species
(National Academic Press). If whole, undigested fly larvae are
seen excreted, they should not be included in the diet. However,
fly larvae are high in protein, and can be used in moderation if
abnormal excretions are not observed.
Fly larvae can be fed to terrestrials, semi-aquatics, and aquatics. One drawback to fly larvae is that they can bury
themselves in substrate, even gravel, before they are eaten. When
they bury themselves in soil, they will morph into adult flies, and
when they bury into aquatic gravel, they will die and potentially
create high ammonia levels.
Fly larvae can be purchased online (Grubco.com is a reputable company), and will last
for months in the refrigerator.
Fruit Flies (Drosophila
spp.):
Small flies of the family Drosophilidae,
having larvae that feed on ripening or fermenting fruits and vegetables,
especially the common species Drosophila melanogaster, often used in
genetic research.
Fruit Flies are very small, and can escape through screen lids. They are best fed
to newly metamorphosed and small amphibians. Although the
flightless variety are usually sold, they will immediately begin to climb up the
closest thing they can find in the tank, and quickly become
inaccessible to the amphibians. It is sometimes necessary to supervise
feeding and
replace the climbing flies on the ground when needed, otherwise your amphibians
might not find them. They can also be placed on the surface of water to feed aquatic
species. They will wriggle around and catch the eyes of your small hunters.
The most common species sold are Drosophila
melanogaster, and Drosophila hydei. D. melanogaster
are slightly smaller than a black ant, and D. hydei are approximately
4-5 times the size of D. melanogaster. Fruit flies can be
fed to new morphs, larger morphs, juveniles, smaller adult
amphibians, advanced larvae, Dendrobates, and other small
species.
Mealworms (Tenebrionidae)
: Mealworms,
the
larvae of the Darkling Beetle, are worm-like in appearance and somewhat hardened for
burrowing, with a life cycle is 3-5 months. In the larval stage,
they may molt 9-20 times (Darkling
Beetle/Mealworms). Mealworms are typically fed to larger amphibians
(tigers, mandarins, dicamptodons, giant waxies, white's tree frogs etc.).
Mealworms are capable of chewing their way through the stomach of the animal that has consumed
them if their
mandibles are still
in tact when swallowed. If mealworms are included in your amphibians diet, it is a good idea to crush the
mandibles prior to feeding.
Mosquito Larvae
& Eggs: Like fruit flies, mosquitoes belong to the
order Diptera. Many species deposit egg "rafts" on the
surface of water (lower left illustration). The eggs hatch into
mosquito larvae (upper left illustration), followed by
development into pupa, and finally adult mosquito.
Mosquito egg rafts and larvae are typically fed to small
aquatic amphibian larvae. The rafts can be laid on the surface
of the water, where they would be deposited in the wild. Most
small amphibians will consume the eggs, as well as the hatching
mosquito larvae.
Some amphibians will also consume the pupa if allowed to develop
further.
Mosquito eggs usually hatch within 48 hours of deposition.
The larvae live in the water, but breathe air. They will spend
their time hanging from the waters surface, making them easy
targets for larval amphibians.
Paramecium (Paramecium
spp.): Belonging
to the kingdom Protista, Paramecium are small unicellular organisms
found in abundance in
freshwater ponds. Under suitable conditions Paramecium may reproduce by dividing two or
three times a day and so large numbers can accumulate in the proper
environment (Micscape:
Article on Paramecium). Paramecium are typically fed to newly hatched
amphibians, and can be collected by skimming the top of a natural
pond or lake and collecting the top inch or so of water, or purchased from most
Biological Supply companies.
Keep in mind that organisms collected from the wild may have
been exposed to harmful chemicals that may affect amphibians if
consumed. It is always safer to purchase cultured foods, or
culture them yourself.
Pill / Sow Bugs,
or Roly Polies (order: Isopoda; family: Armadillidiidae): Pill
bugs are small isopods, commonly mistaken for insects. Pill bugs
have segmented bodies, and seven pairs of legs. If disturbed,
pill bugs roll into a tiny, armored ball, hence the name roly
poly.
Pill bugs can be collected from almost any outdoor habitat,
and are usually accepted by medium-sized terrestrial amphibians,
and some arboreal species. Keep in mind that organisms collected
from the wild may have been exposed to harmful chemicals that
may affect amphibians if consumed. It is always safer to
purchase cultured foods, or culture them yourself. Pill bugs can also be purchased in
mass from most biological supply stores, and some bait and
tackle stores.
Red Flour Beetles
& Confused Flour Beetles (Tribolium castaneum, and Tribolium
confusum, respectively): Red
and Confused Flour Beetles are commonly found in domestic
kitchens, in flour bags, rice bags, cereals, dog food, and other
pantry items. They possess very strong mandibles, and can chew
into the most secure items. Red flour beetles have surprisingly
long lives of 3-5 years, whereas confused flour beetles may only
live up to 18 months. The two species can be distinguished as
follows: The confused flour beetle's antennae gradually enlarge
toward the tip, ending in a four segmented club, whereas the red
flour beetle's antennae become club-like very quickly, and the
club has only three segments. Also, the sides of the confused
flour beetle's pronotum are noticeably straight, whereas the
pronotum of the red flour beetle is curved.
Flour Beetles are approximately 3 mm long, are are typically
fed to newly morphed amphibians, or smaller species, such as
Dendrobates and Mantella. The larvae will reach approximately
1/8 - 1/4 inch long, and can also be fed to new morphs. They are
easily cultured using flour or oatmeal as a substrate. Females
may lay up to 500 eggs over a lifetime. Larvae will mature into
adulthood after 2-4 months, so a flourishing culture may take a while to
establish.
Scuds
(Gammerid): Scuds
are a type of freshwater shrimp of the amphipod group. Scuds can range in size from a few millimeters
up to a 1/4 inch.
Like copepods and Daphnia, scuds are typically fed to larval
amphibians, and can also be collected by skimming the surface of
a clean pond, stream, or creek, or purchased from most
biological supply companies. Keep in mind that organisms
collected from the wild may have been exposed to harmful
chemicals that may affect amphibians if consumed. It is always safer
to purchase cultured foods, or culture them yourself.
Slugs: Slugs
are a common meal for wild amphibians, especially those in the
temperate zones. Slugs can be collected and fed to larger
amphibians, especially those terrestrials that require slower
moving prey. Keep in mind that insects collected from the wild
may have been exposed to insecticides or other chemicals that
may harm amphibians if consumed. It is always safer to purchase
cultured foods, or culture them yourself.
Springtails: coming soon....
Tubifex Worms (Tubificidae):
Like their relatives the earthworms, Tubifex worms are of the class
Oligochaeta, and
feed on decaying organic matter within their substrate. Tubifex differ
from earthworms in that they reside in the muddy substrate of freshwater ponds and
lakes. Tubifex dig holes, or tubes, in the mud head first, and leave their
tails sticking out of the substrate. The part of the tail that is not buried is
waved back and forth to create water circulation, which increases the
flow of oxygen. In highly oxygenated water, the worms will bury
themselves farther into the mud and leave only a tiny bit of the
tail out, and in oxygen-poor waters, they will expose more of
the tail to allow for more oxygen collection. When tubifex occur
in large numbers, the circulation created from their 'tail
wagging' creates a significant amount of oxygen, and helps to
distribute other chemicals evenly. Tubifex are similar to
bloodworms (Chironomid larvae) in that they possess hemoglobin,
which allows them to reside in waters with very little
oxygen.
Tubifex worms are one of the most common food
items fed to aquatic and semi-aquatic newts and salamanders,
as they are readily available and accepted. They can be collected in the
wild by sifting the mud in shallow ponds or lakes, or purchased from most any fish or pet store. There are a few things to
watch out for when feeding live worms, however. Uneaten live worms will live in
the tank, under the gravel where amphibians
can't reach them. They will live, die, and multiply under the substrate, which will create a
spike in ammonia and nitrite levels that is
fairly difficult to correct. One way to prevent this is to place the worms
in a small container and sink the container in the water. Amphibians
will be able to go in and out to eat, but the worms will remain in the
container, in theory. In reality, there are always a few
escapees, so frequent water chemistry tests are advisable if
worms are included in an amphibians diet. Micro fish bowls made for betas work well for food containers because
they are clear, which allows the amphibians to see the worms' movement, and
they sink. Also, tubifex have been known to create gas in the
stomach of some amphibians, especially new morphs. For this
reason, they should not be fed as a staple food.
Tubifex worms should be stored in the
refrigerator in a small container with a lid and air holes, and covered approximately 3/4 of the way in water. The water will need to be
refreshed daily to preserve the lives of the worms.
Waxworms (Pyralidae):
Waxworms are the larvae of the moth Galleria mellonella,
belonging to the subfamily Galleriinae of the family Pyralidae, in which the
females characteristically lay their eggs in beehives (Bartleby.com).
Waxworms range in size from 1 cm to 1.5 in in length, and provide a
nutritious and fattening treat for many amphibians. They are slow
moving, and may be overlooked by amphibians who hunt by eye sight alone, so
feeding with forceps may be necessary with some species.
Waxworms will develop into small moths if left long enough, so a container
with a lid and air holes is necessary.
Waxworms can be fed to aquatic, semi-aquatic, and terrestrials
simply by dropping the worms in the water (they will float), on the
substrate in front to the amphibian, or by using forceps to place the worm directly in front of the
amphibians snout. For terrestrials, the forceps method usually is more effective, as wax
worms can burrow into the substrate fairly quickly.
Waxworms should be stored between 50°F-60°F degrees to decrease mortality.
Waxworms should not be used as a staple diet for amphibians, as they are
very high in fat.
THIS ARTICLE IS A WORK IN PROGRESS; ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION IS ADDED WHEN AVAILABLE ...
References:
Quarles, Jim E. Blood Worms: To be or not to be a worm.
http://www.dph.nl/sub-article/cat-01/bloodworms.shtml
(Accessed: 2002).
Bee Moth. (2003). Columbia Encyclopedia reference, Bartleby.com.
http://www.bartleby.com/65/be/beemoth.html
(Accessed: 2001).
Darkling Beetle/Mealworm Information. Center for Insect Science Education
Outreach (University of Arizona).
http://insected.arizona.edu/mealinfo.htm
(Accessed: 2001).
Samworth, Mike, and Mike Morgan. (1999). Micscape Article: Paramecium. Microscopy-UK:
home of enthusiast microscopy.
http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/indexmag.html?http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/articles/param1.html
(Accessed: 2001).
Tubifex Worms. (2002). Waters Edge Nursery.
http://www.watersedgenursery.com/worms.html.
(Accessed: 2002).
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